Saturday, 2 February 2013

Trans Mongolian: Day 3


Omsk - Krasnoyarsk

831 miles approx
I awoke to find that we were deep in the fabled ‘House of the Dead’. Siberia's reputation had its beginnings in the 17th century when a formal system of exile was introduced. Often being exiled was the soft part of the punishment, as beforehand you might have been flogged or mutilated, like having the septum of your nose ripped out for illegally using snuff. Following the Russian Revolution of 1917 a new system of exile took shape under Stalin, (himself a former exile): the Gulag camp. These brutal forced labour camps exploded in number during Stalin’s purges and drive to industrialise in the 1930’s and 1940’s, and continued to exist until his death in 1953 when they were slowly disbanded. Counter-revolutionary notables lived here and the town on Tobolsk, founded in 1587, was once the capital of Siberia.  Omsk has the dubious infamy of hosting both Fyodor Dostoyevsky and Tsar Nicholas II during their exiles.



 
Brekkie of cous-cous and grapefruit, green tea and a shower of sorts in the little en-suite, which I share with the empty compartment next door J. The sink and floor don’t actually drain so washing must be a selective affair.

 
We stopped at Omsk and briefly left the train to take some photos and buy some “treats” from the
kiosk. I bought these weird chocolate sponge things and some apple juice for tomorrow’s breakfast.  



There were endless views of taiga as we headed over the northern border of Kazakhstan, deep into Siberian territory on what is apparently the world’s busiest stretch of freight railway.


It's impossible to read or concentrate on anything other than the views. Each of my neighbours stated the same; hour upon hour just disappeared as we were glued to the window. Boredom is the furthest thing from anyone's mind. This truly is heaven!                 

          
 
         

          

           
Late night stop at Novobirsk, which is Siberia’s capital and Russia’s third-biggest city by population. The city developed around the Ob River Bridge, which was built for the Trans-Siberian railway. Coalfields to the east and minerals to the north made this a key industrial and transport centre. It also has a theatre which is bigger than Moscow’s Bolshoi. I didn’t see any of this as I was tucked up under a blanket, eating weird chocolate sponges and watching a film. It’s the only way to travel, don’t you know…